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7 Most Common Problems with Can-Am Maverick X3

The Can-Am Maverick X3 is a fantastic car right out of the box, but it isn’t without flaws. The Rotax engine and Fox Shox suspension are so good that the chassis can’t keep up. If you’re doing anything more than moderate trail riding, there are a few essential areas that require rapid attention.

The Maverick X3 can give you a variety of useful and interesting alternatives, as well as a high level of comfort and convenience of use in everyday situations.

However, you should be aware that the vehicle has some restrictions and limitations in terms of some options and built-in features.

The issues we’ll discuss now are issues we encounter when racing or traveling quickly on the trail.

These enhancements aren’t for you if you don’t like doing any of those things, or just want to hang out in the dunes.

Common Problems of the Can-Am Maverick X3:

1. Radius Rod and Plate

The biggest issue is that they aren’t as durable as they should be. The wheel assembly is also not clear with the original radius rods.

This might lead you to believe you’ve cleared anything only to strike a rock or something sticking up, causing you to break or damage your radius rods, which are the stronger of the two.

So, what are your options for resolving this issue? I strongly advise purchasing some ZRP Can-Am X3 High Clearance Radius Rods. They’re available in 64 and 72-inch widths.

These Can-Am radius rods are more durable and superior in general adding 2 inches to the ground clearance.

When taking those rapid spins, this plate has a lot of play in it, which might cause your motorcycle to break a rod. The added play might wreak havoc on your dunes or trail ride. The solution is to install the ZRP radius rod plate.

This will offer your suspension greater strength, reduce stress on the radius rod nuts, and provide you the option of adding a hitch or during receiver installation.

2. Can-Am Door Handles

This has nothing to do with any performance issues. It is simply necessary to change.

The door straps are fragile and should be replaced with billet aluminum handles that bolt into the strap’s location. Have faith in me, everything will be a lot easier for you.

3. Steering Rack and Seal Guard

This patch is for you if you’ve ever experienced a death grip in difficult terrain. It eliminates all front-end play and doesn’t require any lubrication. Overall, it will make all of your turning more comfortable.

I pray you never have a belt blow out and cause transmission damage as we did. We became so fed up with this that we designed a transmission seal protector for the Can-Am X3.

I was able to save $1000 in repairs because of this component. It’ll save you money in the long term for only $40.

4. Front and Rear Knuckles

The OEM knuckles had a wheel bearing issue, which these would fix. As I previously stated, this is for racing, not for everyday driving or leisurely cruising.

The Rear Knuckles on your Can-Am can be replaced to add 72,000lbs of force to the part’s capacity keeping your central radius rod from bending.

The front knuckles have been lab-tested to 86,000 lbs., whereas the stock is only rated at 17,000 lbs., and when hauling ass, you will be hitting that limit regularly. We finish the King of Hammers desert race for a purpose.

5. Can-Am Radius Rods

The biggest issue is that they aren’t as durable as they should be. The wheel assembly is also not clear with the original radius rods.

This can lead you to believe you’ve cleared anything only to hit a rock or something sticking up, causing you to brake or bend your radius rods, which are the stronger of the two.

So, what are your options for resolving this issue? I strongly advise purchasing some ZRP Can-Am X3 High Clearance Radius Rods. They’re available in 64 and 72-inch widths.

These Can-Am radius rods are more durable and superior in general by adding 2 inches to the ground clearance.

6. Alternator

If your Can-Am X3 ever has a low voltage problem, just replace the alternator and install our Can-Am X3 Alternator Kit. The stock alternator wasn’t built to power a stereo, lights, and all of the other electrical components.

The power of the car decreases as it heats up. While using your OEM starter, this alternator will add 75 amps. Simply remove the old one and replace it with the new one.

When an alternator starts to fail, the voltage to your electronic equipment becomes erratic under or over-performing equipment, such as headlights that are either too dim or excessively brilliant, is a common example. You can also notice flickering lights or lights that go from bright to faint and back again.

You may notice a burning stench similar to that of an electrical fire if your alternator is overworked or has frayed or broken cables.

An overworked alternator attempts to pump too much current down its wires, which causes them to overheat and become dangerously hot.

Damaged wires also generate resistance to electrical flow, causing the wires to heat up and exude an unpleasant stench.

7. Shock Tower Brace

Better turning and reduced body flex are two more features that enhance the driving experience and allow you to get the most out of your Can-Am Maverick X3.

Better still, because shock tower braces are so simple to install, they’re also simple to remove. It’s simple to remove your strut brace if you don’t like the way the ride feels. It’s a rather low-risk change.

When you’re hauling and your shocks are under a lot of strain, your tower brace is more likely to break.

It’s preferable if you use a shock tower brace to bolster your upper shocks. It’s a direct fit and will give your suspension greater strength.

What Majority of the Users Feel About Can Am Maverick X3?

The X3’s center, outside radius rod bolt would break free, which was one of the first flaws uncovered by Can-own Am’s race teams.

This is another case when the rod is not supported by twin shear plates. Assault devised a solution called the Radius Rod Double Shear Bracket Kit, which quickly resolves the issue. Here are some reviews from their customers:

“I have been using one for 9 weeks and 641 miles and no significant issues. The only problem I’ve had is where heat for the exhaust appears to be causing excessive wear on the driver’s upper a-arm bushing. Dealer has a new one on order and is working with BRP on a long-term fix.” TurboJunkie from Maverick Forums.

Another user has found his tie rods pretty weak. Here is what he said:

“I’ve had two RZRs and two Mavericks. I put 7k miles on my 2009 RZR 800 and my biggest complaint was the air filtration was garbage as it is with my RZR 900 Trail. RZRs continue to have garbage springs, probably made in China, that start to sag on the first trail. CAN Am’s only issue I’ve found is tie rods that are pretty weak and break easily.

In my opinion, Can Am products are much better engineered, and with that said you would logically ask why I still have an RZR; because Can Am doesn’t make a 50-inch machine and I ride a lot of 50-inch trails. For all else, I take the Maverick. I solved the air issue with my Trail by snorkeling a pretty good-sized K & N for a pre-filter and that works great but I would never use a K & N for the main air filter.”Gerry R From Maverick Forums.

Although the Can AM Maverick X3 has a few problems, but not all of them appear in the same vehicle. If you face any of the problems, you can follow the instructions provided with it.

Final Thoughts

In the end, it’s all about what’s important to you. If you don’t mind replacing all the parts over and again, go ahead, but if you’re like me, you’d rather not.

When pushed, all of the X3 models are at their best, and even the chassis enjoys a good pace. The Can AM Maverick X3 performs best when pushed, and this applies to both the engine and the suspension.

If you manage to solve these problems if you face any, you can get a great time with your ride.

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